A culinary classic was quietly born in the middle of industrial towns’ soot-streaked skylines in 19th-century Britain. Due to working-class demand and immigrant ingenuity, battered fried fish and golden chipped potatoes became the unofficial national dish of the United Kingdom. However, the question remains: who was the real inventor of fish and chips?
Pioneers of the Fry: A Comparative Glance
| Name | Joseph Malin | John Lees |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Ashkenazi Jewish immigrant | British entrepreneur |
| Location | East End, London | Mossley, Lancashire |
| Year Started | Circa 1860 | 1863 |
| Notable Facts | Combined fried fish with chips in his shop | Sold fish and chips from a wooden hut at market |
| Legacy | Credited with opening the first chippy | Early adopter in Northern England |
The Northern Pioneer versus the East End Innovator
At the heart of this controversy are two individuals, each with roots in a distinct region of England. Around 1860, Ashkenazi Jewish immigrant Joseph Malin, who lived in London’s East End, is generally acknowledged for opening the first authentic fish and chip shop. His family eventually served them with potato chips after fusing local cuisine with Sephardic Jewish customs of frying fish in flour and oil. His store on Old Ford Road became a mainstay of the culinary scene in East London.
As an alternative, John Lees is said to have started selling fish and chips from a wooden hut in Mossley Market, close to Oldham, in 1863 in industrial Lancashire, up north. This straightforward combination provided a hot, filling meal at a reasonable cost, which was especially advantageous for the mill and factory workers.
A Dish of Fusion of Immigrants
Fish and chips, which is remarkably successful at bridging cultural divides, is more than just a meal; it’s a tale of adaptation. Recipes for “pescado frito,” or fried fish, were brought by Sephardic Jews who were fleeing persecution in Portugal and Spain. The technique was taken up by Ashkenazi Jews in London, who introduced it to a wider British market by deep-frying fish in batter made of flour. In the meantime, fried potatoes were already popular in the British, especially in the working-class areas of Yorkshire and Lancashire.
By taking advantage of this culinary exchange, fish and chips gained popularity all over the world. It spread swiftly throughout urban neighborhoods due to its extreme versatility and ease of mass production.
Cultural Symbol and Wartime Staple
Notably, the British government protected the supply of potatoes and fish during the First and Second World Wars. A staple comfort food for a country under stress, fish and chips continued to be one of the few non-rationed meals. George Orwell once said that by providing the general public with straightforward but fulfilling pleasure, fish and chips helped avert revolution.
The dish’s popularity endured through urbanization, economic downturns, and even the fast-food revolution, demonstrating its exceptional resilience in the face of food trends. Nothing has quite overtaken the nostalgic value of a paper-wrapped fish supper by the sea, despite the influence of burgers, pizza, and international cuisines.
The Irish Link
It’s interesting to note that immigration also played a role in the history of fish and chips in Ireland. In the 1880s, Italian immigrant Giuseppe Cervi landed in County Cork by mistake while traveling to America. He set up a permanent store on Great Brunswick Street after walking to Dublin and starting out selling fish and chips from a handcart. “Uno di questa, uno di quella,” his wife’s expression, became Dublin slang for “one and one” for fish and chips.
Fish and Chips: Key Historical Milestones
| Year | Event | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1860 | Joseph Malin’s Shop | Opened in Bow, East London, serving fried fish and chips to the working class. |
| 1863 | John Lees’ Venture | Sold fish and chips from a hut in Mossley Market, Lancashire. |
| 1910 | Proliferation | Over 25,000 fish and chip shops operating across the UK. |
| 1939-1945 | WWII Era | Fish and chips exempted from rationing, maintaining public morale. |
| 2009 | Modern Day | Approximately 10,000 fish and chip shops remain in the UK. |
Reinforcement and Reinvention
The public’s understanding of this dish’s history has significantly improved over the last ten years thanks to chefs and food historians. These days, upscale varieties come with house-made tartar sauces, triple-cooked chips, and line-caught cod. In keeping with its roots, restaurants all over the world are embracing fish and chips as a blend of innovation and tradition.
Fish and chips has maintained its status as a nostalgic treat and a dynamic culinary mainstay by incorporating a variety of cooking techniques and paying tribute to its immigrant origins. Even though it may never be entirely resolved, Malin and Lees’ legacy lives on in every bite that is sprinkled with salt.
